Illustrated London News (27 August 1864): 217.—
Commentary and captions from the Illustrated London News
For some years past—and the present season has not differed in this respect from its modern predecessors—the edicts of the Mode have been issued during the summer excursion period. This is easily explained, from the circumstance that it hi b now become the general fashion to pass the hot months at the seaside or at watering-places, where ladies are under very slight restraint as to the style of their costume, and can, without being subject to disagreeable remark, temporarily adopt any innovation, not to say eccentricity, which the taste of their modistes may suggest. Of all these bold innovations a few sometimes remain, and, once approved, become the mode for a certain time. Thus it was at the watering-places during the present season that the high bonnets recently worn received their coup de ciseaux; and the smallest of small bonnets, having obtained the official approbation of competent judges at Vichy, at Trouville, at Honfleur, and other fashionable resorts, will in all probability reign triumphant for some time to come. We have even seen some that scarcely cover the occiput, merely ornamented in front and on the scarcely perceptible back edge with drooping flowers, instead of the tour-de-tete and bavolet, which are now frequently abandoned. But it must be observed that such chapeaux, although met with in the best houses, are not yet general. Round hats are, however, still numerously patronised in Paris, especially by the foreigners, who are attracted thither by the splendid fetes in honour of the Emperor and the King of Spain.
During the fine days of September robes of halfseason materials may still be ventured upon. The lino placé, a light stuff, more durable than barège and easily cleaned, deserves to be placed in the front rank with all the tints of grey alpaca, now very much à la mode. Cream-coloured Irish poplins, for toilette de campagne or for the seaside, are also very elegant wear, as well as the piqués of Alsatia and Rouen, which are, of course, rather heavier, but have the advantage of enabling the wearer to support the sudden variations of the temperature at this season without danger.
Greater demands than ever are now made upon the art of the coiffeur, whose talent is brought into requisition for the arrangement of ladies’ hair, false or natural. Curls and catogaus are looked upon as perfectly legitimate importations when the richness of the owners chevelure is not sufficient to furnish such capillary ornaments. A quantity of hair, spread out to the best effect and decorated with flowers or ribbons, is one of the particular marks of the waning summer season.
Fig. 1. Walking Dress.—Green silk dress, deeply vandyked, each tooth being ornamented with rich white guipure. The casaque is adjusted to the waist, and is of the same colour ns the dress and similarly trimmed. White crape bonnet, small in size, and provided simply with a bouillonné of tulle in the place of the bavolet.
Fig. 2. Seaside Dress for a Young Lady.— Light grey poplin robe and pardessus, all the ornaments being in black silk with long fringe. The chapeau is the chapeau Windsor, and is almost concealed by an aigrette and a very large depending feather. The bottines are laced up in front and the stockings are of the same colour as the dress.
Fig. 3. Carriage Dress.—White muslin robe over sea-green silk slip. Rich lace flounce, surmounted by a niching of green silk. The camail is of green silk, trimmed with deep lace of like quality with that on the skirt. Bonnet of white tulle, ornamented with grass, and with a rose (sometimes replaced by a butterfly) in the tour-de-tête. A large sea-green bow surmounts the back hair or catogan instead of the usual curtain.
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Last modified 21 November 2015